We warmly welcome back this fabulous, iconic shoe style, after a manufacturer's absence of nearly five years!

The U. S. Army Type III Service Shoe was accepted by the Quartermaster Corps in June 1943 under Boston Quartermaster Depot Specification 110.  This new shoe was manufactured from leather uppers with the flesh side of the animal, in this case cowhide, reversed, hence one of the nicknames for these shoes being “roughouts” since the rough, fleshy portion of the leather skin was on the outside, and the smooth, finished portion was on the inside (not to be confused with the similar shoes already on issue to the USN and USMC prior to 1943).  Authorized and intended strictly for use in the field to be worn in conjunction with the M-38 Dismounted Troops canvas lace-up leggings; the reversed flesh-out leather required no polishing and would not look all that unsoldierly if scuffed and soiled vs. the Types I & II Service Shoes made of smooth finished leather that had been in use for field, garrison and service dress use up until the point when combat troops began receiving the first Type III Service Shoes in 1943. 

Once the Type III Service Shoes materialized in sufficient quantities, which wasn’t until 1944, the older Types I and II Service Shoes were rarely worn in the field and were relegated then for garrison or service dress only.  The Type III Service Shoes featured a heel and full sole manufactured from composite or reclaimed rubber (recycled from auto/truck tires, etc., due to the shortage of rubber during the war), steel shank for strong arch support and better retention of shoe shape, leather uppers made from hides that were chrome tanned with a heavy vegetable re-tanning, no toe box or toe cap as found on Types I and II Service Shoes, and the quarter was attached to the vamp with a reinforcing rivet in addition to four rows of heavy stitching; the rivet was deleted from all subsequent Type III Service Shoe production in the summer of 1944.  The heels were hand nailed to the rubber soles and the soles were sewn and also hand nailed at key stress areas.  Welting leather was specified to be of an extremely high quality that would join the shoe to the sole via the famous Goodyear welting system, which is considered the finest welting system ever devised.  The Type III Service Shoes were, upon issue to the troops, usually dubbed or rubbed down with a waterproofing grease that darkened them substantially. 

Type III's had a relatively short production life, lasting approximately 18 months before they were fully phased out in favor of the Combat Boots that were produced simultaneously with the Type III's for quite some time.  During the period of issue of the Type III's, it was not at all uncommon to see them worn without the M-38 Dismounted Troops Canvas Leggings; this was particularly a practice in the Pacific theater and among personnel of the USAAF whose duties did not require the wearing of leggings.

Due to the rugged construction, great comfort, overall smart looks and relatively cheap and ready supply, Type III Service Shoes were part of a substantial post-war consumer market where the shoes were widely sold for work wear, hunting, fishing, and other casual outdoor activities.  However, the shoes achieved iconic status largely via their appearance in the all-time-classic WWII PoW adventure film drama made in 1963, "The Great Escape," as worn by the "King of Cool" himself, legendary actor Steve Mc Queen in his leading role as the charismatic, wisecracking, cocky USAAF fighter pilot Virgil Hilts.  Hilts sported Army khaki trousers worn with a cut-down sweatshirt and vintage A-2 leather aviator's jacket all the while therapeutically bouncing a baseball off the concrete walls of the "cooler" into his baseball-mitted hand in between persistent schemes to break out of the prison camp, only to repeat the process again upon recapture. It was this film and Mc Queen’s “Hilts” character that fueled enormous interest again in the Type III Service Shoes that reached fanatical proportions in Japan. 

This fanatical interest is what largely instigated Buzz Rickson’s to begin production of the Type III Service Shoes to the same pedigree of quality and depth of detail encountered on the vintage shoes from WWII.  Years later, the Type III Service Shoes began to be reproduced by a variety of companies in the USA, the manufacture of which was almost entirely farmed out to low-end factories in developing nations and the market for which these shoes were made remains almost exclusively dominated by those performing various forms of WWII historical presentations, performances and/or re-enactments.  Such shoes produced and sold at far lower price points than those made in Japan are intended to merely resemble the original Type III Service Shoves, whereas the Buzz Rickson’s Japanese-made examples are stitch-for-stitch masterful works of beauty and quality intended to perform to the same rugged standards as did the vintage shoes that won WWII, thus the premium-grade leather uppers can soldier on for years and years with new Lite Tread rubber hitting the ground, thanks to the complete re-soling services available from the factory.  This is how quality footwear used to be in the USA back before the era of cheap disposability permeated society.  All Buzz Rickson’s Type III Service Shoe production follows the same concept as employed by the U. S. Army Quartermaster Corps in the 1940's – make ‘em to last, make ‘em to be repaired, make ‘em for the duration!

Just as featured in Esquire magazine, Buzz Rickson’s Type III Service Shoes are produced exactly as the GI shoes were produced by legendary footwear manufacturers in the USA that have long since vanished:    The uppers are manufactured from a beefy, chrome-tanned cowhide leather that is then vegetable tanned for no less than 12 weeks, after which the leather is sewn and hand lasted over a period of days to ensure maximum stretch and flexibility to the finished shoe, and finally the lasted uppers are sewn using the famous Goodyear storm welt to premium-grade welting leather - NEVER are soles vulcanized to the uppers or sewn in some cheap manner to duplicate the appearance of a true Goodyear welt at a sacrifice to comfort, quality and durability.  The Buzz Rickson’s Type IIIs also feature precise custom-made copies of the famous 1940's Lite Tread rubber heels and soles, with the soles having the rare “chain” pattern that was produced but for short time during WWII and is the rarest tread pattern employed in the production of rubber soles for the military at that time. Today, no other Type III Service Shoes available in the USA offer the Lite Tread soles and heels. 

These are classic pieces of rugged, smart-looking, comfortable footwear that never go out of style, whether worn with jeans, khaki’s or hiking shorts.  Please take note of these high-quality features found on Buzz Rickson’s Type III Service Shoes:  

• Size and U. S. Army inspector markings embossed in the leather foot bed as per the vintage exam

• Authentic U. S. Army BQD contract and spec. markings ink stamped onto the inside quarters of each shoe precisely matching the style and placement as found on the vintage examplle

• Authentic size marking ink stamped to the rubber soles as was often done during WWII to better enable easier, rapid identification of shoe size when storing or issuing the shoes by the quartermaster • Uppers sewn with authentic off-white thread

• Premium-grade, flesh-out leather uppers, chrome tanned, then vegetable tanned for greater durability and better fit when lasted and worn

• Premium-grade, veg-tanned leather welting attached using the Goodyear welting system with heavy-duty corded thread

• Quadruple-stitched quarters for durability as per the original spec. then bolstered by a reinforcing rivet as found on the early Type IIIs

• Custom-made all-cotton shoe laces that are heavily waxed for greater service life and moisture repellence, as per many of the WWII military shoe laces

• Hand-lasted uppers for better fit and comfort • Heavy, non-corrosive steel shank for heavy-duty support and longer shoe life and shape maintenance

• Custom-made precision copies of the famous Lite Tread rubber soles and heels from WWII; soles are sewn via the Goodyear welting system employed to make the shoes during WWII, then heels are nailed in place by hand and soles are reinforced with nails at key stress points, precisely matching the original spec.

• Premium-grade, veg-tanned leather insoles for better breathing of feet and moisture absorption.   Current fittings available as measured on a Brannock device (this is the sizing instrument used to determine shoe size found in all true shoe stores):  U. S. A. men’s sizes 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2, 10, 10 1/2, 11, & 11 1/2.  If you plan on wearing a heavy rubber insole or prefer a looser fit, then the available size range will be smaller than indicated here.

Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan          

The U. S. Army Air Force Type B-15 Intermediate Flight Jacket was developed from lessons learned in field use of the highly popular B-10 Flight Jacket of 1943. As early as 1942, the Materiel Division of the US Army Air Forces was seeking an alternative material to sheepskin for producing flying suits, and by October of that same year development had begun at Wright Field on the Intermediate Flying Jacket, Type B-10. Originally constructed of an outer shell made from a fine, cotton twill, and lined with an alpaca-and-wool pile lining, the B-10 Flight Jacket was standardized on July 22,1943, though it was superseded less than 9 months later by the B-15 Flight Jacket. Both the B-10 and B-15 Flight Jackets were designed as replacements for the sheepskin flight jackets of the 1930s and early 1940s, and represented the first cloth-shelled, alpaca fur-lined flight jackets of the USAAF.

These flight jackets were an instant success with just about every aviator who encountered one, being much lighter and more versatile than the flight jackets they replaced. Intended for wear in climates between 25 degrees and 55 degrees Fahrenheit, the B-15 Flight Jacket was ideally suited for early spring and late fall and winter.

Buzz Rickson's brand has reproduced the B-15 Flight Jacket in exacting detail, based on those once produced for the AAF by the Rough Wear Clothing Co., and Buzz Rickson's heavy, cotton twill fabric is never to be confused with the cheap, flimsy fabrics used by lesser manufacturers to produce so-called vintage reproduction USAAF flying jackets. In fact, the only other flying jackets in the world today made from this fabric are those original vintage examples of the USAAF!  

This B-15 Flying Jacket correctly captures all the nuances found on original vintage B-15 Flight Jackets made by the Rough Wear Clothing Co., making this product virtually indistinguishable from an original vintage example of the USAAF. Take note of these authentic features:

• Copy of original maker’s label design produced on a vintage shuttle loom

• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave Olive Drab cotton twill outer shell to precisely match original specs.

• Correct USAAF-spec. inner lining of warm, double-faced alpaca-and-wool blend. We cannot say too much about the use of the original, double-faced alpaca, which is what provides the warmth associated with the vintage jackets and requires vintage machinery found in Japan; at best, single-faced alpaca is present on cheaper look-alike costume-grade jackets and Buzz Rickson's does not make costumes.

• Gorgeous, plush, genuine mouton-fur collar with fur-padded button tab closure dyed to rich, deep-toned cognac brown

• Two snap-down exterior pockets lined with warm off-white shade corduroy precisely matching 1944 USAAF specs.

• Two snap-down interior pockets lined with heavy all-cotton drill fabric precisely matching 1944 USAAF specs.

• Authentic copy of a Talon zipper with blackened finish on jacket front, with cool-looking, contrasting tan-colored zip tape made of all-cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton

• Correct USAAF spec. leather pull tabs on zipper

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, all-wool knit cuffs and waist skirt in Olive Drab

• USAAF insignia transfer on left sleeve and wind flap behind zipper

• Assembly with all-cotton thread on vintage sewing machines 

Sizes: 36-44 Regular.  Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Imported from Japan

Buzz Rickson's brand is world renowned for producing truly standout copies of the famous G-1 Flying Jacket, but this new example elevates their reputation to levels so spectacular, we are left fully bereft of adequate words to describe it.

This offering is a meticulous copy of a G-1 Flying Jacket produced under the first G-1 Flying Jacket spec. from 1947 (spec. 55-J-14), duplicating the typical jackets produced by A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc., a civilian contractor to the U. S. Navy.  No detail has been overlooked by Buzz Rickson's brand, which means every component part of the jacket had to be custom made to match buttons, zippers, and fabrics that no longer exist in the same form as was found in the late 1940's; however, it is the fit, taken directly from vintage U. S. Navy specs., and the sumptuous, Merino sheepskin collar and grade-one goatskin that, along with this jacket's many other parts, combine to make this nothing less than wearable history recreated. 

The goatskin is positively striking in every way. The leather weight comes in at a robust 3-ounces per square foot and is fully vegetable tanned, rich with heavy grain, and dyed only on the surface with full-pigment dyes.  The leather is not at all stiff or overly heavy, but it is plump and firm, and fully unlike the heavily processed, chrome-tanned goatskin so commonly found in mainstream jackets.  Surface dying is how the original 55-J-14's were dyed, which means this Buzz Rickson's G-1 will age and distress just as we see on those cherished vintage jackets, with all the character of an old navy salt.  And we cannot say enough good about the look of this leather:  the coloring of the dye used and its attendant finish are simply the most like a new-condition, vintage 55-J-14 as any we have ever seen!  Other copies of the 55-J-14 G-1 Jackets, even from top manufacturers, typically can be much too dark in color, too shiny, or too matte in appearance, and the shade of brown is just never right where it needs to be - until NOW!  Even the top aficionados of the 55-J-14 G-1 Flying Jackets will be duly impressed with what Buzz Rickson brand has achieved with this goatskin leather.  

Beyond the industry-leading leather quality and character, beyond the clone-like color and finish type, and beyond the supreme comfort and flattery of the genuine U. S. Navy fit, is the mind-blowing rayon lining and fur collar.  Buzz Rickson's brand has always had their heavyweight rayon acetate lining custom made to match Navy-spec. rayon fabric in weight, appearance, and hand, but because the coloring of the lining of a 55-J-14 made by A. Pritzker & Sons is so unique among other contractors of the 55-J-14's, the lining on this example is especially noteworthy - the color, weave, and weight just hit you as something only seen on a vintage example - it both looks and feels just as a 55-J-14 made by A. Pritzker & Sons in the late 1940's did!  

Merino sheepskin is something Buzz Rickson has tweaked to perfection for at least the last 4 years.  Somewhere, the Buzz Rickson brand has located a tannery that seems to generate Merino sheepskin as if it had been genetically engineered to match the mind's fantasy of ideals:  The sheepskin used on the collars of these G-1 jackets is nothing short of mouth-watering, sumptuous, mega-plush, half-inch genuine Merino sheepskin that is just not of this Earth!

Final touches that take this G-1 Flying Jacket into the heavens include the reproduction of a blackened-metal, late-1940's Conmar zipper, genuine urea buttons (never incorrect, cheap plastic), and a copy of the A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc. label woven on vintage shuttle looms.  The sum of all the many parts is an heirloom, clone-like jacket that fits like a dream, and which can be handed down to the next generation - there's nothing disposable about a Buzz Rickson's leather jacket and it only gets better with use and age!

This Buzz Rickson G-1 55-J-14 is a masterpiece of wearable jacket art, crafted in rugged materials that are as beautiful as they are durable.  Please note the following materials and features:

• Copy of the original A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc., woven label produced on a vintage shuttle loom, not modern projectile looms

• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave rayon acetate lining dyed to match the purple-like brown shade associated with 55-J-14's made by A. Pritzker & Sons

• Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply, Navy-spec., worsted-wool cuffs with the narrow weave graduating into the wider weave at top, dyed medium brown to match what is commonly seen on 55-J-14's made by A. Pritzker & Sons

• Custom manufacturing of the correct single-ply, bi-directional, Navy-spec., worsted-wool waistband, dyed medium brown to match what is commonly seen on 55-J-14's made by A. Pritzker & Sons

• Two button-down exterior pockets lined with all-cotton twill precisely matching 1940's USN specs

• One snap-down interior pocket lined with heavy-weight, all-cotton duck twill precisely matching 1940's USN specs

• Exact copy of the vintage-style, blackened-metal Conmar Conmatic zipper on jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton

• Leather pull tab on zipper for easy functioning with gloves

• Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure 

• Bi-swing action back and gusseted armpits (with metal air ventilators) for greater range of motion without restriction

• Gorgeous, plush, genuine-Merino sheepskin collar with backing leather correctly reinforced with trapunto stitching to maintain collar shape and help keep collar up when the need arises.  The "USN" stencil is correctly applied in off-white paint to the collar back in a font style precisely matching that found on 55-J-14's manufactured by A. Pritzker & Sons.

• Sumptuous, vegetable-tanned, 3-ounce, heavy-grained goatskin that is not overly stiff or heavy, maintaining the true feel of the original jackets.  The dye coating is sprayed on, just as it should be for a 55-J-14 G-1, and it precisely matches the correct shade of brown and finish found on 55-J-14's once made by A. Pritzker & Sons; the result is a leather that will distress and age over time from use and wear to yield a vintage look that is on par with anything made in the 1940's-'50's

• Genuine urea buttons, not incorrect, cheap plastic 

• Assembly using vintage sewing machines

Even sizes 36-44 Regular.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan

Buzz Rickson brand gained fame from making the finest copies of the legendary USAF MA-1 Flying Jacket, beginning in 1994, and it was the obsessive perfection of this MA-1 that provided the impetus for acclaimed novelist William Gibson to make the Buzz Rickson MA-1 , albeit in incorrect black, a co-character in his groundbreaking novel "Pattern Recognition."  The serendipitous creation of a 10th anniversary black MA-1 from Buzz Rickson's coincided with the debut of "Pattern Recognition," and the success of the first black MA-1 for Buzz Rickson's gave way to the William Gibson Collection in 2007, and since then the black, Tailored-Cut MA-1 (available on this website) has become a top seller around the world.  Due to customer requests, we now bring you a similar Tailored-Cut MA-1 from the Buzz Rickson William Gibson Collection, but in the original USAF sage green with corresponding sage green lining, just as it was in the original spec. from the 1950's, but without the USAF decal on the shoulder sleeve.

Buzz Rickson brand takes other extraordinary steps to recreate this classic jacket style in the exact, same manner of original production.  The nylon twill used in the lining of the original garments is a lighter type from that used on the exterior (because the USAF reasoned that the lining would be subject to less wear and tear), and indeed Buzz Rickson has recreated both weights of nylon twill for their reproduction, but supreme, museum-grade authenticity does not stop there.  The original nylon twill, being produced in large runs by various manufacturers, would also reflect slight color shifts in each dye lot produced - nothing outlandish, mind you, but noticeable enough when you hold one roll of fabric against another from a different dye lot or different manufacturer.  To counter this unavoidable color deviation, the USAF specs. stipulated that a jacket had to me made from fabric that was entirely from the same dye lot, except for small pieces of the jacket such as the interior pocket welting.  Astute observers of the original garments are aware of this detail, and so are the jacket masters at Buzz Rickson, thus Buzz Rickson brand goes the extraordinary extra mile and expense and has two purposely different shades of nylon twill produced (albeit subtly different shades), so that the interior pocket welting does indeed appear to be subtly different in shade from the rest of the jacket lining, exactly duplicating a normal result of true, mass production in a reproduction garment that has nothing in common with mass production and is crafted in small batches with love.

This Tailored-Cut MA-1 is offered for those who prefer something slimmer and less bulky than the original MA-1 Flying Jacket design, whereby the armhole has been raised higher, the sleeves further tapered, and the body slimmed down vs. the full cut of the original MA-1 Flying Jacket design.    Other than the tailored fit, this MA-1 Flying Jacket is replete with all of the authenticity found in a vintage example of the late 1950's and which Buzz Rickson's is world renowned for making. 

Please note the following features and details found on this Buzz Rickson masterpiece:

• Copy of original maker’s label design produced on a vintage shuttle loom, not a modern projectile loom.

• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave sage green nylon outer shell and inner lining using vintage looms and precisely matching 1957 USAF specs. and treated to repel water.

• Modified tailored fit with higher armholes, narrowed shoulders, tailored body and tapered sleeves.

• Correct USAF-spec. inner lining of warm wool fiber filling sandwiched between the outer and inner shell lining.

•Two snap-down exterior pockets lined with warm 80/20 wool-rayon fabric precisely matching 1957 USAF specs.

•Two snap-down interior pockets lined with heavy 100% cotton-twill fabric precisely matching 1957 USAF specs.

• Exact copy of the heavy-duty 1953 Crown zippers on sleeve pocket and jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton.

• Leather pull tab designed for easy functioning with gloves

• Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure.

• Correct, USAF-spec. leather pull tab on sleeve pocket

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply, 100% worsted-wool knit collar, cuffs and waist skirt in sage green

• Heavy, parachute-harness nylon in sage green correctly sewn to left front chest for attaching oxygen mask retainer clip.

• Two snap-down tabs (one on each breast) for retaining headset and microphone wiring leads, exactly as on original 1957 MA-1's.

• Zippered pocket on left sleeve outfitted with four pen/pencil slots and two anti-puncture pencil caps made of USAF-spec. brass.

• Assembly using vintage sewing machines

Even sizes 34-44 Regular or 34 - 44.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan

Eschew the soccer-mom look and grab something that actually fits well and is made of high-quality fabric meant to hold up over years of wear and laundering!  

Buzz Rickson's premium, vintage-style, all-cotton athletic sweatpants are made from medium-weight, 100% cotton fabricated on 1920's-vintage loop-wheeling machines, styled with all the correct features found on the old sweatpants and cut to hug the body in a flattering form without bulk, just as the vintage originals did.  Limited quantities available.  Take note of these authentic vintage styling features:

• Custom manufacturing of the medium-weight, all-cotton fleece fabricated on vintage loop-wheeling looms
• Vintage wash
• USAF Langley Air Force Base logo silk screened to the left upper thigh in a muted, non-plastisol ink to duplicate the look and feel of vintage ink types
• One side-entry pocket per leg
• Heavy-weight, all-cotton draw ties at each cuff opening and waist
• Exact copy of the original-style rayon-on-cotton labels
• True vintage fit for flattering appearance, not a sloppy, relaxed fit with saggy rear and baggy legs

A note on loop-wheeling looms:

Loop-wheeling looms are special machines that were once common decades ago and able to weave even rows of small loops of yarn on the inner fabric side rather than the typical fleece we see on contemporary sweatshirt and pant interiors that have much more of a solid, flat appearance.  These old looms also can only weave one set diameter per loom; this means the factory needs a different loom for each size - very expensive - which is why you hardly ever see true tube construction in modern-day garments.  Tube construction ensures true shape is maintained, not only during its construction, but during its life of wear.  This is the proper way to make a sweatshirt; in the good old days, the proper way was the only way.  It's cheap and easy to make shirts from a flat piece of cloth and most customers would never notice the difference, though they may wonder why their not-so-cheap sweatshirt seemed to lose its shape after only a few washes - but now you know.

Sizes:  Small, Medium, Large, & XL.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Imported from Japan

Buzz Rickson's brand is world renowned for producing truly standout copies of the famous USN intermediate flying jackets, commonly, albeit erroneously, all lumped together as G-1 Flying Jackets.  Before the first G-1 Flying Jacket designation (Spec. 55-J-14) of 1947, these intermediate flying jackets made of leather began as spec. M-422; following the USN M-422A Intermediate (goatskin) Flying Jacket, the AN-6552 Intermediate Flying Jacket was the next in succession in late 1942.  Developed as a jacket for both the USAAF and USN, hence the "AN" designation (Army/Navy), the back of the collar was not stenciled with "U. S. N." as found on the M-422/M-422A, but with "U. S."  This new AN-6552 Flying Jacket we are introducing elevates the Buzz Rickson reputation with this jacket type to levels so spectacular, we are left fully bereft of adequate words to describe it.

This offering is a meticulous copy of an AN-6552 Flying Jacket produced in 1944, duplicating the typical jackets produced by the rare contractor, American Sportswear Co.  No detail has been overlooked by Buzz Rickson's brand, which means every component part of the jacket had to be custom made to match buttons, zippers, and fabrics that no longer exist in the same form as was found in the war years; however, it is the fit, taken directly from vintage U. S. Navy specs., and the sumptuous Merino sheepskin collar and grade-one goatskin that, along with this jacket's many other parts, combine to make this nothing less than wearable history recreated. 

The goatskin is positively striking in every way. The leather weight comes in at a robust 3-ounces per square foot and is fully vegetable tanned, rich with heavy grain, and dyed only on the surface with full-pigment dyes.  The leather is not at all stiff or overly heavy, but it is plump and firm, and fully unlike the heavily processed, chrome-tanned goatskin so commonly found in mainstream jackets.  Surface dying is how the original AN-6552's were dyed, which means this Buzz Rickson's AN-6552 will age and distress just as we see on those cherished vintage jackets, with all the character of an old navy salt.  And we cannot say enough good about the look of this leather:  the coloring of the dye used and its attendant finish are simply the most like a new-condition, vintage AN-6552 as any we have ever seen!  

The AN-6552's of American Sportswear Co. were produced in a chestnut shade of dark brown; other copies of the these jackets typically can be much too dark in color, too shiny, or too matte in appearance, and the shade of brown is just never right where it needs to be - until NOW!  Even the top aficionados of the AN-6552 Flying Jackets will be duly impressed with what Buzz Rickson brand has achieved with this goatskin leather.  

Beyond the industry-leading leather quality and character, beyond the clone-like color and finish type, and beyond the supreme comfort and flattery of the genuine U. S. Navy fit, is the mind-blowing rayon lining and fur collar.  Buzz Rickson's brand has always had their heavyweight rayon acetate lining custom made to match Navy-spec. rayon fabric in weight, appearance, and hand, but because the coloring of the lining of a AN-6552 made by American Sportswear Co. is very much a salmon-like shade of pale, muted red-brown and very unique among contractors of the AN-6552's, the lining on this example is especially noteworthy - the color, weave, and weight just hit you as something only seen on a vintage example - it both looks and feels just as an AN-6552 produced by American Sportswear Co. did in 1944!  

Merino sheepskin is something Buzz Rickson has tweaked to perfection for at least the last 4 years.  Somewhere, the Buzz Rickson brand has located a tannery that seems to generate Merino sheepskin as if it had been genetically engineered to match the mind's fantasy of ideals:  The sheepskin used on the collars of these AN-6552 Flying Jackets is nothing short of mouth-watering, sumptuous, mega-plush, half-inch, genuine Merino sheepskin that is just not of this Earth!

Final touches that take this AN-6552 Flying Jacket into the heavens include the reproduction of a blackened-metal, late-1940's Conmar zipper, genuine urea buttons (never incorrect, cheap plastic), and a precise copy of the American Sportswear Co. label woven on vintage shuttle looms.  The sum of all the many parts is an heirloom, clone-like jacket that fits like a dream, and which can be handed down to the next generation - there's nothing disposable about a Buzz Rickson's leather jacket and it only gets better with use and age!

This Buzz Rickson G-1 55-J-14 is a masterpiece of wearable jacket art, crafted in rugged materials that are as beautiful as they are durable.  Please note the following materials and features:

• Copy of the original American Sportswear Co. woven label produced on a vintage shuttle loom, not modern projectile looms

• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave of rayon acetate lining dyed to match the salmon-like shade of pale, muted red-brown associated with AN-6552's made by American Sportswear Co.

• Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply, Navy-spec., worsted-wool cuffs with the narrow weave graduating into the wider weave at top, dyed chestnut brown to match what is commonly seen on AN-6552's made by American Sportswear Co.

• Custom manufacturing of the correct single-ply, bi-directional, Navy-spec., worsted-wool waistband, dyed medium brown to match what is commonly seen on AN-6552's made by American Sportswear Co.

• Two button-down exterior pockets lined with all-cotton twill precisely matching 1940's USN specs

• One snap-down interior pocket lined with heavy-weight, all-cotton duck twill precisely matching 1940's USN specs

• Exact copy of the vintage-style, blackened-metal Conmar Conmatic zipper on jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton

• Leather pull tab on zipper for easy functioning with gloves

• Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure 

• Bi-swing action back and gusseted armpits (with metal air ventilators) for greater range of motion without restriction

• Gorgeous, plush, genuine-Merino sheepskin collar with backing leather correctly reinforced with trapunto stitching to maintain collar shape and help keep collar up when the need arises.  The "US" stencil is correctly applied in yellow paint to the collar back in a font style precisely matching that found on AN-6552's manufactured by American Sportswear Co.

• Sumptuous, vegetable-tanned, 3-ounce, heavy-grained goatskin that is not overly stiff or heavy, maintaining the true feel of the original jackets.  The dye coating is sprayed on, just as it should be for an AN-6552, and it precisely matches the correct shade of chestnut brown and finish found on AN-6552's once made by American Sportswear Co.; the result is a leather that will distress and age over time from use and wear to yield a vintage look that is on par with anything made in the 1940's-'50's

• Genuine urea buttons, not incorrect, cheap plastic 

• Assembly using vintage sewing machines

Even sizes 36-44 Regular.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan

The L-2B Flight Jacket was an all-time favorite, renowned for comfort, light weight, and amazing warmth-to-weight ratio, and all of this remains true with this masterpiece copy.  

The USAF L-2B Flight Jacket was developed as a direct replacement for the blue L-2A Flight Jacket.  L-2A Flight Jackets were produced in blue circa 1950 as part of an effort by the then-new USAF service branch to stand apart from the old USAAF and its association with the U. S. Army.  This blue color proved unsatisfactory in combat conditions during the Korean War, where a downed airman needed a combat uniform color that would help conceal him from any nearby enemies, and the new USAF blue, unfortunately, only made downed aviators better targets and more easily found.  The result of this combat experience in the first two years of the Korean War resulted in the development of a new color that did better conceal downed airmen and, by mid-1952, the first of the combat flying clothing began to appear in this new color known as sage green.  The early sage green tended to have a distinctly more silver-grey cast to it than the later sage green shade employed in the 1960s, which is one distinguishing characteristic of the earlier L-2B Flight Jackets.

The L-2B Flight Jacket was intended for wear in climates between 42 degrees and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, thus ideally suited for spring, summer and fall. The essential differences between the L-2A Flight Jacket and L-2B Flight Jacket are:  Color changed from blue to sage green, size on labels changed from numerical (38, 40, 42, etc.) to textual increments (small, medium, large, etc.), the cut was made more generous and the outer nylon shell was changed from 1/3 twill to the heavier 2/2 twill, while the lining was changed from a wool-and-nylon blend to a wool-and-rayon blend.  The L-2B Flight Jacket had a long service life, with later versions that featured the orange linings that were first introduced in 1964 still being found in service use into the late 1970s.  This Buzz Rickson’s L-2B Flight Jacket is manufactured in the earlier silver-grey sage green and is a precise copy of an original example produced by the esteemed government contractor Skyline Clothing, Corp., circa 1958, being the 4th L-2B Flight Jacket variant (Spec. 7448C) in the evolution of the L-2B Flight Jacket series.

Buzz Rickson has reproduced the L-2B Flight Jacket (Spec. 7448C) in exacting detail.  Buzz Rickson’s heavy-weight nylon twill fabric is never to be confused with the cheap, flimsy flight satin used by lesser manufacturers to produce so-called vintage reproduction USAF flight jackets.  In fact, the only other flight jackets in the world today made from this nylon are those vintage examples of the USAF!  Please take note of these authentic features:

• Exact copy of the original maker’s label produced on a vintage shuttle loom

• Custom manufacturing of the correct 2/2 weave and weight in silver-grey color USAF Sage Green nylon twill outer shell to precisely match 1950's USAF specs., and treated to repel water

• Custom manufacturing of the correct 65% rayon 35% wool double-faced inner lining in silver-grey sage green, reflecting early L-2B manufacture

• Exact copy of the super-desirable, spring-loaded 1950's Crown zippers on sleeve pocket and jacket front, with zip tape made of all-cotton HBT fabric in a beautifully contrasting tannish color, not incorrect poly-cotton.  The leather zip pulls have been sewn in a circular pattern, exactly matching the stitch style found on L-2B Flying Jackets once produced by Skyline Clothing, Corp.

• Correct USAF-spec. leather pull tabs on zippers

• Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply 100% worsted-wool knit collar, cuffs and waist skirt in the USAF Sage Green

• Heavy, parachute harness nylon in USAF Sage Green correctly sewn to left front chest for attaching oxygen mask retainer clip

• Snap-down pocket flaps and shoulder straps crafted to match the style found on L-2B Flying Jackets made by Skyline Clothing, Corp.

• USAF insignia transfer on left sleeve and under maker label in lining

• Zippered pocket on left sleeve outfitted with four pen/pencil slots and two anti-puncture pencil caps made of USAF-spec. brass

Sizes:  XS  – XXXL.  The fit is generous.  Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Crown is a registered trademark in the USA of History Preservation Associates.

Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan

The MA-1 Flight Jacket’s lightweight construction, comfortable non-bulky warmth and natural good looks made this style an instant success with jet jockeys at bases around the world, as well as anyone who could beg, borrow or steal one of these coveted gems.  It was intended for wear in climates between 25 degrees and 55 degrees Fahrenheit, thus ideally suited for early spring, late fall and winter.  The MA-1 Flight Jacket would see combat life during the Cold War and Vietnam War, as well as in fashion life that, in many forms and colors, continues to this day. MA-1 Flight Jackets produced for the USAF in the 1960's declined in quality and warmth from those of the 1950's, and featured a reversible orange lining.  But those early MA-1 Flight Jackets that were made from a silver-gray shade of sage green in heavy-weight nylon twill, warmly lined with woolen fiber filling sandwiched between the outer nylon shell and the sage green inner nylon lining were, and likely will remain, the nylon flight jacket of greatest desire by both aviators and collectors.  Although the orange-lined MA-1 Flight Jacket was superseded by the newer Nomex jackets in the 1980's, it was not uncommon to find an old veteran still wearing an MA-1 Flight Jacket for some years afterwards. 

The popularity of MA-1 Flight Jacket series produced one of the longest continued service careers of any flight jacket in the history of the USAF. Buzz Rickson has reproduced this first-model MA-1 Flight Jacket in exacting detail.  Buzz Rickson’s heavy nylon twill fabric is never to be confused with the cheap, flimsy flight satin used by lesser manufacturers to produce so-called vintage reproduction USAF flight jackets.  Buzz Rickson brand takes other extraordinary steps to recreate this classic jacket style in the exact, same manner of original production:

The nylon twill used in the lining of the original garments is a lighter type from that used on the exterior (because the USAF reasoned that the lining would be subject to less wear and tear), and indeed Buzz Rickson has recreated both weights of nylon twill for their reproduction, but supreme, museum-grade authenticity does not stop there.  The original nylon twill, being produced in large runs by various manufacturers, would also reflect slight color shifts in each dye lot produced - nothing outlandish, mind you, but noticeable enough when you hold one roll of fabric against another from a different dye lot or different manufacturer.  To counter this unavoidable color deviation, the USAF specs. stipulated that a jacket had to me made from fabric that was entirely from the same dye lot, except for small pieces of the jacket such as the interior pocket welting.  Astute observers of the original garments are aware of this detail, and so are the jacket masters at Buzz Rickson, thus Buzz Rickson brand goes the extraordinary extra mile and expense and has two purposely different shades of nylon twill produced (albeit subtly different shades), so that the interior pocket welting does indeed appear to be subtly different in shade from the rest of the jacket lining, exactly duplicating a normal result of true, mass production, but in a reproduction garment that has nothing in common with mass production and is crafted in small batches with love.

The only other flying jackets in the world today made to this level of authenticity are those vintage examples of the USAF!  This Buzz Rickson’s MA-1 Flight Jacket correctly captures all the nuances found on MA-1 Flight Jackets once produced by the Albert Turner Company, making this product virtually indistinguishable from an original vintage example of the USAF.  Take note of these authentic features:  

• Copy of original maker’s label design produced on a vintage shuttle loom, not a modern, projectile loom.

• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave nylon outer shell and inner lining to precisely match the originalUSAF specs. and treated to repel water.

• Correct USAF-spec. inner lining of warm wool fiber filling sandwiched between the outer and inner shell lining.

• Two snap-down exterior pockets lined with warm 80/20 wool-rayon fabric precisely matching 1950's USAF specs.

• Two snap-down interior pockets lined with heavy all-cotton twill fabric precisely matching 1950's USAF specs.

• Exact copy of the heavy-duty 1953 Crown zippers on sleeve pocket and jacket front, with zip tape made of all-cotton HBT fabric that is rolled and glued at the base, not incorrect poly-cotton that is heat sealed with plastics at the base.

• Leather zipper pull tab as found on Albert Turner MA-1's, designed for easy functioning with gloves.

• Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure.

• Correct USAF-spec. leather pull tab on sleeve pocket.

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply, 100% worsted-wool knit collar, cuffs and waist skirt in sage green.

• Heavy-weight parachute harness nylon in sage green, correctly sewn to left front chest for attaching oxygen mask retainer clip.

• Two snap-down tabs (one on each breast) for retaining headset and microphone wiring leads, exactly as on original 1950's MA-1's.

• USAF insignia transfer on left sleeve and under maker label in lining, exactly as found on early MA-1's.

• Zippered pocket on left sleeve outfitted with four pen/pencil slots and two anti-puncture pencil caps made of USAF-spec. brass.

  Sizes: XS – XXXL.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.  

Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan    

Buzz Rickson's brand is renowned for producing truly standout copies of the legendary G-1 Flying Jacket, and they really went over the top on this gem!  This limited-edition style combines the original features of the U. S. Navy G-1 Intermediate Flying Jacket (spec. 7823 from 1950) with styling from Buzz Rickson’s William Gibson Collection.  The original standards of quality and material types have been strictly adhered to by Buzz Rickson’s, but with a distinct slant toward supreme luxury and durability, and, of course, you have William Gibson’s personal approval of each item in the collection.  

G-1 jackets of the 1950's were originally produced in one of the strongest, most desirable leather types - goatskin - which was keenly sought after and which cost more than hides such as horse or steer.  The designers at Buzz Rickson's wanted to match the heavy grain and durability found in vintage goatskin when planning this jacket, and so they sourced some amazing goatskin.  This sumptuous goatskin is sourced from India, where a preeminent tannery selects only the best-of-the-best hides, all 3 ounces in weight, and fully vegetable tanned for a firm-yet-supple hand, then fully aniline dyed jet black for a luxurious, character-rich finish.

Beyond the industry-leading leather quality and character and beyond the supreme comfort and flattery of the genuine U. S. Navy fit, is the mind-blowing rayon lining and fur collar.  Buzz Rickson's brand has always had their heavyweight rayon acetate lining custom made to match Navy-spec. rayon fabric in weight, appearance, and hand, but the lining on this example is especially noteworthy - the color, weave, and weight just hit you as something only seen on a vintage example - it both looks and feels just as a vintage G-1 did and does from the 1950's!  Assembly follows original specs. using all-cotton thread, and vintage looms are used to create the incredible, heavyweight rayon-twill lining. 

Merino sheepskin is something Buzz Rickson has tweaked to perfection for at least the last 5 years.  Somewhere, the Buzz Rickson brand has located a tannery that seems to generate Merino sheepskin as if it had been genetically engineered to match the mind's fantasy of ideals:  The sheepskin used on the collars of these G-1 jackets is nothing short of mouth-watering, sumptuous, mega-plush, half-inch genuine Merino sheepskin that is just not of this Earth!

The sum of all of this is an heirloom jacket that can be handed down to the next generation - there's nothing disposable about a Buzz Rickson's leather jacket!  This Buzz Rickson William Gibson G-1 is a masterpiece of wearable jacket art crafted in rugged materials that are as beautiful as they are durable.  Please note the following materials and features:

• Copy of original maker’s label design produced on a vintage shuttle loom, not a modern projectile loom

• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave rayon acetate lining dyed the original shade of a purple-like brown

• Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply, worsted-wool cuffs with the narrow weave graduating into the wider weave at top, dyed jet black

• Custom manufacturing of the correct single-ply, bi-directional, worsted-wool waistband, dyed jet black

• Two button-down exterior pockets lined with all-cotton twill precisely matching 1950 USN specs.

• One snap-down interior pocket lined with heavy-weight, all-cotton duck twill precisely matching 1950 USN specs.

• All buttons are genuine urea, not incorrect, cheap plastic 

• Exact copy of the vintage-style, blackened-metal Conmar Conmatic zipper on jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric that is rolled and glued at the base, not made of incorrect poly-cotton that is heat sealed at the base with plastics

• Leather pull tab on zipper for easy functioning with gloves

• Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure 

• Bi-swing action back and gusseted armpits (with metal air ventilators) for greater range of motion without restriction

• Gorgeous, plush, genuine mouton-fur collar dyed jet black, with backing leather correctly reinforced with trapunto stitching to maintain collar shape and help keep collar up when the need arises

• Sumptuous, vegetable-tanned, 3-ounce, heavy-grained goatskin that is not overly stiff or heavy, maintaining the true feel of the original jackets.  The black dye coating is sprayed on, just as it should be for a 55-J-14 G-1; the result is a leather that will distress and age over time from use and wear to yield a vintage look that is on par with anything made in the 1940's-'50's

• Assembly using vintage sewing machines

Even sizes 36-44 Regular.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan