Standardized in 1937, the D-1 Mechanic's Winter Jacket was a rather lavish item considering it was intended for use by aircraft mechanics. But the D-1, like all clothing and equipment issued to U. S. servicemen, was typical of the motto "only the best will do," and at that time sheepskin was in relatively plentiful supply (the USA was not at war) and there was no other material with a better insulating value. The first D-1's produced were of a natural, unfinished raw-white exterior, just like the early B-3 Flight Jackets (which have sometimes been erroneously and foolishly referenced as being produced for use in Alaska). In 1939 the D-1 exterior hide was finished in the very costly hand-dyed russet brown “redskin” and given a top coating of lacquer to help repel water and grease. By the end of 1941 the D-1 was being produced in the less costly, dark brown spray-dyed hides, just as were the B-6 and B-3 Flight Jackets, and pockets were also added with zipper-top closures. As the war progressed, the D-1 continued to decline in quality, and more and more spliced panels of sheepskin were permitted into its fabrication. Due to the hard use given the D-1 during its issue life and the inferior grades of sheepskin allowed into its later production as the war dragged on (it was for mechanics, after all), original D-1 Jackets in nice condition are extremely rare in the collector market today.

A ground crewman’s life was often a bitterly cold experience: Working on aircraft on a windswept airfield in the middle of winter certainly required a warm jacket, but it also could not be overly confining, thus the D-1 was made in the same lighter weight sheepskin found on the B-6 Jacket, which was only and always the 1/4”-depth wool. The D-1, however, seemed to find its way into aircrew hands. Maybe this was because there were no B-6s available on a particular base, or just that the airman preferred the D-1 design with its higher-set zippered pockets. In fact, the D-1 and B-6 are very similar in appearance, as well as warmth. Being a jacket intended for mechanics, the D-1 is an unfussy, simple design, lacking cuff and hip adjustments, as well as the bi-swing back of the B-6. Interestingly, the D-1 will forever be associated with airmen and not mechanics in the mind of many, due to the fact that it was an original post-1941 D-1 Jacket worn on the 1960s - 1970s comedy show, “Hogan’s Heroes,” by the bumbling POW character named Carter.

The D-1 Jacket we produce is typical of the post-1941 USAAF shearling jackets that reflect the very earliest production standards before the quality declined. Crafted from the correct 1/4”-depth of premium North American sheepskin stock, vegetable-tanned and spray-dyed dark brown, with a buttery-hued wool, our D-1 is the epitome of this jacket type currently available. As per the original examples, all external seams are covered with matching dark brown horsehide, and pockets are fabricated from heavy, all-cotton, off-white twill, accessible via our reproduction nickel-plated Talon zippers. Why not stay toasty in a D-1 Jacket while toasting the unsung heroes of the USAAF ground crews for whom no aircraft would ever have flown into combat had they not vigilantly and expertly performed their dirty, unglamorous jobs!

Available in sizes: XS – XL Regular.  Long and extra-long fittings available at no additional cost on custom order only.  Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Imported from England

Clearance liquidation of overstock sizes ONLY.   These are new, unworn, and complete with factory warranty.  Clearance pricing applies ONLY to the listed, select sizes on this website that are in stock at our New Jersey facility (no discounting applies to sizes not listed as available on this website):  25% off regular retail price of $2, 150.00!!!  No refunds will be given on clearance items, but returns are allowed for exchange credit toward any items and/or services we offer with no expiration date on credit.

.50 CAL is a small range of specialized flight jackets and related garments that are offered only in the Time-Worn finish. They are unique in spec. to any of the other similar models we offer, so they are not simply Time-Worn versions of our regular range. The colors, materials and finishes are purposely selected to create a subdued and rugged-looking vintage garment that will appeal to those who appreciate the nostalgic charm of a true vintage flight jacket.

The Time-Worn process is entirely hand done, which takes hours to achieve; the result is a jacket that is still brand new, but you get something that has a vintage, lived-in, patina that you can continue to add to from the first time you put it on.

Vintage A-1 Flight Jackets extant today are few and far between, but those that have survived are, generally, very well worn. Being made from Capeskin (sheep), the leather is softer than other hides, such as steer and horse, thus A-1 Flight Jackets sustain scuffing and grazing more easily than flight jackets made from tougher leathers. The .50 CAL A-1 Flight Jacket captures perfectly this vintage appeal.

Standardized on November 27, 1927 as a Summer flying jacket, the A-1 Flight Jacket was the very first U. S. flight jacket design with knitted waist and cuffs; this was a style that was to set the basic outline for flight jacket designs for decades to come. Synonymous with early aviation heroes such as Jimmy Doolittle, the A-1, although superseded by the A-2 in 1931, was still in limited use during WWII and was not declared obsolete until September 29, 1944.

Our .50 CAL A-1 Flight Jacket is made from a vegetable-tanned, broken-grain Capeskin, which is then put through our Time-Worn® process to develop the full character of a vintage original. Remember, there's no waiting for this one to wear-in before you get it looking like a vintage original – the .50 CAL A-1 Flight Jacket is ready for action!

Sizes available: 36-48 regular.  Long and extra-long fittings available at no additional cost on custom order only.

Imported from England

The M422A flight jacket spec. of WWII evolved into the 55-J-14 G-1 flight jacket in 1947 (no G-1 flight jackets existed before 1947). We chose this G-1 flight jacket version as the one to copy (spec. 55-J-14), not only because it's the oldest, thus having more “vintage” appeal, but it also had a true combat application, seeing service in the Korean War. The G-1 flight jacket went through several more spec. changes before arriving at the current G-1 flight jacket spec. of today (7823E), but the basic design hasn't changed all that much, just the fine details. The 55-J-14, however, was certainly the best quality; the caliber of materials seems to decline with the passage of time.

Our G-1 flight jacket is made of the same unparalleled, vegetable-tanned, aniline-dyed goatskin as our M422A, but in the correct very dark brown color associated with the G-1 flight jacket. Other authentic features include: bi-swing pleated back, armpit gussets, side seams vs. wraparound kidney seams of the M-422A flight jacket, one interior and two exterior pockets lined in 100% cotton twill, pure mouton fur collar more blunted in shape than M-422A, “USN” stencil painted in off-white behind collar, rayon satin lining in purple-brown color, 100% wool cuffs and bi-directional waistband, pen slot in left pocket, authentic woven label and reproduction, nickel-plated, 1940's Talon zip. This G-1 flight jacket is a true classic, born from a time when propeller-driven Corsairs and turbine-powered Banshees roared off the same flight decks!

Sizes available: 36-48 regular. Long and extra-long fittings available at no additional cost on special order only.  Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Imported from England

This flight jacket was standardized as the M-422 spec. by the US Navy in March of 1940, after which the design went through several spec. revisions, culminating as the AN-J-3A flight jacket in October of 1943. The M-422A spec. was the most widely produced of all the USN intermediate leather flight jackets of the 1940's, seeing action in every battle that USN/USMC aviators took part in: from U-Boat hunting in the Atlantic and invasion patrols on D-Day, to the decisive Pacific engagements at Midway, Guadalcanal and the “Marianas Turkey Shoot.” A testament to the good looks and great function of this flight jacket design is that, with only subtle changes, it continues to be issued to USN airmen right up to the present day - now known as the G-1.

We have chosen to reproduce the M-422A flight jacket introduced in October 1940, specifically copying those jackets once produced by an original manufacturer, Gordon & Ferguson, in a 1942 contract. This flight jacket matches every nuance of detail found on the finest original examples: absolutely unsurpassed, heavy, sumptuous vegetable-tanned, aniline-dyed, medium-brown goatskin in 3-ounce weight, with a character-rich, course pebbled grain found only on old originals and ours; 100% worsted-wool cuffs and waistband, the latter in the correct bi-directional weave; pure mouton fur collar and leather throat latch; one interior and both outer pockets lined in all-cotton twill; rayon satin lining in the correct burgundy color; stenciled “USN” marking behind collar in silver paint; authentic woven label; bi-swing pleated back for ease of movement; armpit gussets; asymmetrical left pocket with pen holder and a reproduction 1942 nickel-plated Talon zip. Let our M-422A flight jacket catapult you into U. S. Navy history!

Sizes available: 36-48 regular. Long and extra-long fittings available at no additional cost on special order only.  Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Imported from England

Last ONE left priced for clearance liquidation to make room for new items.  This is new, unworn, and complete with factory warranty.  Clearance pricing applies ONLY to sizes and colors in stock at our New Jersey facility:  $1, 105.00 off regular retail price of $2, 100!!!  No refunds will be given on clearance items, but returns are allowed for exchange credit toward any items and/or services we offer with no expiration date on credit.

Inspired by classic, vintage leather jackets of the 1930's – ‘50's, the ELMC Californian is a style that was often associated with motorcycle riding, being rugged, durable, light weight, easy to wear, and sleekly tailored.

Lovingly crafted by leather artisans on the bench one jacket at time, with each panel cut by hand versus stack cutting by machinery, the ELMC Californian leather half-belt jacket is a throwback to an era where quality was king.

Adding to the vintage aesthetic and comfort found in this style is a hand-applied light treatment of vintage patina – just enough so that the leather looks slightly broken-in for both a rugged look and lived-in comfort.

This is not a leather jacket to be found in malls or department stores – it’s a leather jacket of extreme distinction to last a lifetime and beyond. And with factory repair services available for the parts subject to normal wear such as linings, zippers, buttons, etc., your investment in both history and style can be refurbished to original spec. – there’s nothing disposable about an ELMC leather jacket!

Each example is also outfitted with all the vintage detailing one could hope for, which includes:

• Premium, imported Italian horsehide conforming to 3 ounces in weight, fully vegetable tanned and aniline dyed, with a full grain of rivulets and valleys that yields all the character typically associated with old-school, vintage leather jackets

• Fully lined with 100% rayon acetate for easy sliding on and off

• Assembly with 4-ply, heavy-gauge, all-cotton thread

• Vintage-style Corozo cat’s-eye buttons at cuff opening that provide two-position adjustment

• Bi-swing action back for greater range of motion

• Half-belt design with adjusting buckles at waist

• Hard-wearing, all-cotton drill cloth used in pocket lings

• Vintage-style, matte-finish, nickel-plated metal zippers on pocket and center front

• Two hand-warmer pockets

• Vintage-style union label in pocket

• Vintage-style labels in lining woven on vintage shuttle looms

Sizes available: 36-46 regular, long, and extra long. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Made in Great Britain

Inspired by classic, vintage leather jackets of the 1930's – ‘50's, the ELMC Californian is a style that was often associated with motorcycle riding, being rugged, durable, light weight, easy to wear, and sleekly tailored.

Lovingly crafted by leather artisans on the bench one jacket at time, with each panel cut by hand versus stack cutting by machinery, the ELMC Californian leather half-belt jacket is a throwback to an era where quality was king.

Adding to the vintage aesthetic and comfort found in this style is a hand-applied light treatment of vintage patina – just enough so that the leather looks slightly broken-in for both a rugged look and lived-in comfort.

This is not a leather jacket to be found in malls or department stores – it’s a leather jacket of extreme distinction to last a lifetime and beyond. And with factory repair services available for the parts subject to normal wear such as linings, zippers, buttons, etc., your investment in both history and style can be refurbished to original spec. – there’s nothing disposable about an ELMC leather jacket!

Each example is also outfitted with all the vintage detailing one could hope for, which includes:

• Premium, imported Italian horsehide conforming to 3 ounces in weight, fully vegetable tanned and aniline dyed, with a full grain of rivulets and valleys that yields all the character typically associated with old-school, vintage leather jackets

• Fully lined with 100% rayon acetate for easy sliding on and off

• Assembly with 4-ply, heavy-gauge, all-cotton thread

• Vintage-style Corozo cat’s-eye buttons at cuff opening that provide two-position adjustment

• Bi-swing action back for greater range of motion

• Half-belt design with adjusting buckles at waist

• Hard-wearing, all-cotton drill cloth used in pocket lings

• Vintage-style, matte-finish, nickel-plated metal zippers on pocket and center front

• Two hand-warmer pockets

• Vintage-style union label in pocket

• Vintage-style labels in lining woven on vintage shuttle looms

Sizes available: 36-46 regular, long, and extra long. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Made in Great Britain

Inspired by classic, vintage leather jackets of the 1930's – ‘50's, the ELMC Californian is a style that was often associated with motorcycle riding, being rugged, durable, light weight, easy to wear, and sleekly tailored.

Lovingly crafted by leather artisans on the bench one jacket at time, with each panel cut by hand versus stack cutting by machinery, the ELMC Californian leather half-belt jacket is a throwback to an era where quality was king.

Adding to the vintage aesthetic and comfort found in this style is a hand-applied light treatment of vintage patina – just enough so that the leather looks slightly broken-in for both a rugged look and lived-in comfort.

This is not a leather jacket to be found in malls or department stores – it’s a leather jacket of extreme distinction to last a lifetime and beyond. And with factory repair services available for the parts subject to normal wear such as linings, zippers, buttons, etc., your investment in both history and style can be refurbished to original spec. – there’s nothing disposable about an ELMC leather jacket!

Each example is also outfitted with all the vintage detailing one could hope for, which includes:

• Premium imported Italian horsehide conforming to 3 ounces in weight, fully vegetable tanned and aniline dyed, with a full grain of rivulets and valleys that yields all the character typically associated with old-school, vintage leather jackets

• Fully lined with 100% rayon acetate for easy sliding on and off

• Assembly with 4-ply, heavy-gauge, all-cotton thread

• Vintage-style Corozo cat’s-eye buttons at cuff opening that provide two-position adjustment

• Bi-swing action back for greater range of motion

• Half-belt design with adjusting buckles at waist

• Hard-wearing, all-cotton drill cloth used in pocket lings

• Vintage-style, matte-finish, nickel-plated metal zippers on pocket and center front

• Two hand-warmer pockets

• Vintage-style union label in pocket

• Vintage-style labels in lining woven on vintage shuttle looms

Sizes available: 36-46 regular, long, and extra long. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Made in Great Britain

The Henley is a classic vintage-style tee shirt if ever there was one.  This is produced exclusively for ELMC by the John Lofgren workshops of Japan. The expertise in making such a garment is really only found in one place in the world these days – Japan - and John Lofgren is the master.

These Henley tee shirts are created using a thread that was developed in Japan that replicates the look and feel of vintage fabric; because these cottons all have different length staples (fibers), the thread has a distinctive texture that is similar to vintage fabric. This specialized thread is called ‘Raffy’, which is a combination of American Supima cotton, Egyptian cotton and Turfan cotton.  The body section is produced by one company and another makes the ribbing - each specializing in their own field of expertise. The cost is, naturally, much more expensive than regular mass-produced material, but the finished product is superior.

Of course, all of the authentic detailing is incorporated in the design, thus these classic, vintage Henley tee shirts have  the vintage fit, which is sensibly trim and lacking sloppy, droopy shoulders, excess blouse in the body width and length, and no sleeves hanging down to your elbows. Both over-lock and flat-seam sewing are deftly executed in this design as per the vintage garments.  Lastly, genuine, seashell buttons are employed at the neck closure and the labels in the neck are woven on vintage shuttle looms for the correct vintage look and feel.

The Henley tee is often duplicated but we offer the real deal - a sleek-fitting classic styled to vintage perfection and built to last.

Available in sizes 36 - 46.  Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

This classic, vintage-style, half-zip sweatshirt was copied directly from a vintage original- every detail has been replicated exactly. This has been the most technically involved project coming out of the ELMC textile range of products, with two years of research and development invested. Three different textile mills were involved in creating the fabric, each specializing in particular component of this loop-wheeled sweatshirt: body fabric, cuff ribbing, and collars.

Vintage sweatshirts were manufactured to a standard back in their era that was very much the norm, utilizing circular tube-knitting machines that produced shirts with a perfect tube body and no side seams.  Tube-knitting machines can only weave one set diameter per loom; this means the factory needs a different loom for each size - very expensive - which is why you hardly ever see true tube construction in modern-day garments. Even the most expensive designer sweatshirts will usually have a side seam - sometimes two seams!  Tube construction ensures true shape is maintained, not only during its construction, but during its life of wear.  This is the proper way to make a sweatshirt; in the good old days, the proper way was the only way.  It's cheap and easy to make shirts from a flat piece of cloth, and most customers would never notice the difference, though they may wonder why their not-so-cheap sweatshirt seemed to lose its shape after only a few washes - but now you know.

Japan is home to the masters of tube-knitting and we enlisted the great John Lofgren, master of vintage American clothing, to help bring this shirt to its insane levels of vintage perfection. Of course, all of the vintage, high-quality detailing has been deftly copied; please note the authentic detailing:  

• This vintage-style sweatshirt’s body was woven on vintage circular, loop-wheeling, knitting machines – there are no side seams

• Vintage-style metal zipper created by ELMC, choosing the perfect vintage style tape, teeth, top and bottom stoppers, and slider, then finishing it off with a custom-branded ELMC pull - all made in Japan

• Custom-made knitted collar - splay cut

• The fabrics are dyed in Yamagata and sewn in Iwate, then the shirts are sent to southern Japan for a subtle ageing process; this requires each shirt to be worked on one-by-one to achieve the perfect, subdued aesthetic – all very costly

• Black rayon trim to zip and rear of collar

• All-cotton thread used throughout construction

• Set-in sleeves

• Exact copy of the original-style, printed-on-cotton labels

• True vintage fit for flattering appearance, not a sloppy, relaxed fit with droopy shoulder seams

Take a bite of old-time machismo and see how true sweatshirts used to look and feel. 

Limited quantities available.   Sizes:  36 - 44.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.  

Imported from Japan