Buzz Rickson Vintage-Style Flying Jacket, Nubuck Horsehide
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The Buzz Rickson design team has taken a vintage flying jacket design that was one of many civilian styles of the late 1920s and early 1930s, most of which were similar in appearance to the A-1 Jacket of U. S. Air Corps fame and likely produced in a finished horsehide, cowhide or sheepskin, and given the style a hide finish that is contemporary and likely not offered by any other manufacturer to date, thus we introduce Buzz Rickson’s nubuck horsehide!
Horeshide has long been cherished for its durability and related equine prowess. Nubuck leathers combine the natural great looks of suede but with the durability and more of the soil resistance associated with finished leathers and not associated with suede. Classic suede is made from the softer, less durable flesh side of an animal’s hide, while nubuck is made from the hide’s exterior skin and NOT its flesh side, hence the skin side is far more durable and much less prone to soiling and much more easily cleaned. The exterior skin is what is typically finished smooth and dyed to craft leather goods from, but by sanding this same side of the leather, the tannery is able to produce the beauty of suede but with a finer texture and far greater durability – the type of long-term durability one normally associates with the skin side of finished leather.
This Buzz Rickson’s nubuck horsehide jacket is crafted from the finest vegetable-tanned horsehide imported from Italy; Italy is renowned for producing most of the best vegetable-tanned horsehide in the world. The hides are all 1.3 mm in thickness, and after tanning they are finely sanded and turned into nubuck horsehide to give the end user a jacket that is as unique as it is good looking and durable.
Please note the following features found on this Buzz Rickson masterpiece:
- Precision copy of a vintage label design produced on vintage shuttle looms
- Custom manufacturing of the cotton broadcloth lining in medium green
- Two button-flap exterior pockets
- Genuine, vintage-style cat’s-eye nut buttons
- Hip adjusters with hammered-look metal buckles
- Leather outer shell crafted from 1.3 mm-thick, vegetable-tanned, nubuck horsehide imported from Italy
- Assembly using vintage sewing machines
Even sizes 38-42 Regular. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan
Buzz Rickson Vintage-Style Flying Jacket, Nubuck Horsehide
SIZING TIPS
About this Style: This jacket provides a very easy-wearing fit that creates very few sizing issues for the overwhelming majority of individuals. It is important to keep in mind that the external chest measures listed here are just that – EXTERNAL measures – and don’t account for the slightly lesser amount of room on the inside of the jacket. Likewise, if you plan to wear heavy layers under this jacket style, that application will further subtract from the room inside the jacket. About 70% of our customers prefer this style in a size 3.5” - 4” larger than their chest measure, while the other 30% prefer a size that is 5" - 6” larger than their chest measure.
Tip 1: Follow the instructions entitled “How to Use Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit” listed under the PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS tab for this product. After finding no substantive conflicts with your body measures obtained from the tab entitled BODY MEASURING, order this garment with no less than 3.5” of room in excess of your chest measure if you prefer a trim fit. If a roomier or longer fit is desired, then order the next available size after reviewing all relative measures that pertain to that size.
Tip 2: Please note that your chest circumference measure is not necessarily the labeled size you wear in another jacket you may own from a different maker or even the same maker, so please take the time to obtain your true chest circumference measure so as to compare to our chart of jacket measures; this will enable us to perform a better job getting you the right size and minimize your chances in having to deal with the hassle and cost of exchanges.
Please ask us for fitting advice if in doubt.
Tip 3: Individuals who prefer looser fits and/or those with a waist measure that is nearly equal to or greater than their chest circumference measure may jump up one size in this jacket for comfort and desired fit (when we refer to waist measure we do not mean your trouser size; we mean the actual circumference measure of your waistline at its widest point). If you are unsure of the size to order, we will assist you; please contact us with the following information: Height, waist circumference measure, chest circumference measure, body weight, and type of clothing to be worn beneath the jacket most of the time, as well as the type of fit you prefer: Trim, roomy or oversized.
Buzz Rickson Vintage-Style Flying Jacket, Nubuck Horsehide
PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS
The following table provides actual product measures. These measures are provided as an aid because, in conjunction with the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each product, they can sometimes be very useful when comparing the measurements from this garment to the measures of your body; however, acting as an armchair tailor should be done with caution, as well as with knowledge of other important areas of fit that are not displayed here. Armchair tailors frequently fail to take into account other significant elements that impact fit; following the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each garment on this web site is strongly suggested, which can be very useful in supplanting or supplementing the listed measures below.
Our measures were derived from averaging measurements taken from many garments of the same size from each specific size in the range of any given product, thus the measures provided are representative for each size but they may not be exactly what you will receive. Some fluctuation in size is normal and to be expected, especially in these garments that have been manufactured on the bench by hand. Size fluctuations are rarely encountered in the width measures and more typically encountered in length measures, and particularly with respect to leather jackets and jackets with knit cuffs and waistbands. Fluctuations in width measures are very rare, and when they are encountered they are typically insignificant: 1/8” – ¼”. Normal fluctuations in sleeve and/or body length + /- a ½” are more common but still rare, and such fluctuations in that increment range are within spec. for jackets of the same size and style.
Size | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 |
Chest width | 21.75" | 22.75" | 23.75" | ||
Shoulder width | 17.5" | 18" | 18.5" | ||
Arm length | 24.25" | 24.75" | 25" | ||
Back length | 27" | 27.5" | 27.5" |
How to Use the Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit:
1) Using the measurements listed for this product and information found under the tab entitled MEASURING GARMENTS to understand our measuring technique, please double the chest measure to obtain the total external chest circumference of this garment. For example: If the chest measure listed for size 40 is 22.75”, doubling this measure yields a 45.5” external chest circumference.
2) Measure your chest circumference as per the tab on this web site specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your chest measure to the chest measure of this product.
3) Many jackets are cut in such a way that the wearer requires no less than 3.5” of room in the jacket for a sleek fit that is also comfortable, while other jacket styles require the wearer to have more than 8” of room. If your chest circumference is 40”, a product with a 22.75” chest width has a 45.5” external chest circumference and would provide 5.5” of external room in this scenario (chest measures 40”, external chest measure of jacket is 45.5”, thus 5.5” of external room would be realized).
4) Again, using the measurements listed for this product and information under the MEASURING GARMENTS tab to understand our measuring technique, add half of the shoulder width to the arm length. For example: If the shoulder width is 18” and the arm length is 24.75”, adding 9” (half the shoulder width) to 24.75” (the arm length) will yield an overall sleeve length of 33.75” in this product.
5) Measure your overall sleeve length following the instructions on this web site under the tab specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your overall sleeve length to this product.
6) If desired, repeat the measuring comparisons for back length.
7) Compare your body measures to the listed garment measures and follow the advice found under the SIZING TIPS tab to obtain a good fit.
IMPORTANT: Because you need room in a garment for comfort, garments with a 44” chest circumference are NOT a size 44, nor are they intended for anyone with a 44” chest circumference. Tee shirts and thermal shirts tend to have the most body-hugging fits of our product offerings because these were originally intended to be undergarments, thus these can be ordered to stretch to fit if that is how you wish to wear such garments. Other shirts, sweatshirts, sweaters, jackets, etc. will all have some amount of room incorporated in their designs, thus these will all measure larger than your actual chest measure by varying degrees.
Sometimes-Problematic Way to Determine a Good Fit:
Due to differences in how even near-identical garments are cut by different manufacturers, it is not necessarily a good idea to compare the listed measures of this product to the measures of an existing, similar product in your wardrobe to determine the correct size to order in this product. Though such comparisons can indeed work some of the time, and maybe even most of the time, vast experience with and knowledge of the products we market has proven such practices will sometimes fail. This inaccurate measuring methodology doesn't factor in other key variables of fit relative to you and the garment that includes: Armhole opening, shoulder slope, high-point shoulder, high chest, width of sleeves at all points including the all-important elbow, waist measure, and the thickness, plumpness, and rigidity of the material the garment is made from, naming just some variables influencing fit that do not appear on any list of measurements for a garment or that a customer is likely to account for.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
A Good Fit:
This is highly subjective - what one person may think is too big, another may think fits perfectly. Some garments are cut quite generously and others are cut quite trimly. If comparing measurements of one of our products to another you may own, some individuals will surely find that none or maybe only one area of measure is commonly shared or remotely close to being the same. Ultimately, chest measure is the most important area to properly fit, then all other areas of measure will have to fall into place. And some individuals who are extremely tall may find that body and/or sleeve length are more important to accommodate than even chest measure.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
Please understand that no jacket can be two jackets in one (you may have to make a compromise in fit somewhere). The best look is achieved wearing a shirt and undershirt, or a medium-weight sweater with undershirt; the goal being a trim, sleek look. If the application of our jackets is with multiple layers of clothing, then the original look will be compromised; when purchased oversized, please keep in mind that the jacket will fit NOT trimly but LOOSELY when fewer clothes are worn.
As a rule here, if the jacket squares up nicely on the shoulders when worn with the sort of clothing you will wear most of the time, falls about 1 1/2" below the top of your trousers (if a waist-length jacket), allows you to reach into trouser pockets and recover keys, wallet and change without discomfort or pain, as well as allow normal strides while walking, then this is very likely a good fit and how the jacket would have been worn in its original era.
Using the good-fit test where one draws their arms across their chest as a barometer for snugness will almost certainly produce some binding in many leather jackets with non-gussetted backs of the correct size, and thus push you further up the sizing scale into a very large jacket. If you can get that sort of movement range without binding in one of our A-2 jackets, then it will surely be rather loose and sloppy when you aren't drawing your arms across your chest in front of you.
What makes more sense, having a jacket that looks great and feels fine during 90% of your activities, or only when you cross your arms in front of you? Do you walk around with your arms crossed in front of you? The choice is yours and we will gladly oblige all tastes, but do try to get the look originally intended.